Deadlight Repair

August 31, 2011

I’ve been frustrated for years with the deadlights (fixed ports) on my Triton. As anyone with similarly-constructed ports will tell you, they are not easy to install so that they don’t leak. Especially (in my opinion) if you use silicone as recommended.

A recent Good Old Boat article discussed the use of double-sided foam adhesive tape made by 3M. They call the tape VHB for Very High Bond. The author of the article used the tape to install his ports and was pleased with the results. I used nearly the same tape (3M part number 5962) as described in the article, although the tape I was able to find in stock locally (www.btctape.com) was 1″ wide, which worked out fine for me.

First I had to remove the ports and frames. They came off fairly easily. Even though I had tried twice to install the deadlights, I think I may not have used enough sealant both times. I also saw that the silicone did not adhere real well to the acrylic port lenses, but I guess silicone typically does not bond strongly to the acrylic.

Triton Deadlight Frames

Deadlight Lenses

 

I brought the lenses and frames home and used Digesil from RPM Technologies to chemically remove all traces of the silicone – or so I hoped!

Removing silicone

I used both a brush and a putty knife to apply the Digesil gel. I also used the gel on the sides of the cabin where the deadlights were installed. After letting it sit for a while, I washed the Digesil off and cleaned the frames up using a grinder with a wire wheel.

Clean deadlight frames

 


Repair Log

August 4, 2011

I had hoped to get down to the boat in the AM, but I ended up doing some work in my basement workshop before going to the boat. I’m happy that I now have use of the bandsaw I acquired some time ago, and I mounted my grinder on the stand I got for it a while back.

Once at the boat (after a stop at WM) I replaced the mizzen outhaul so I don’t now have to take the boom off to bend on the mizzen! I also replaced the mizzen sheet with a slightly smaller one (in diameter).

I used some hardware I got recently to mount a block on the aftmost stanchion for the furler line. I also put a bracket on the bow pulpit to hold the Danforth anchor. Not sure if it will stay there, but it gets it out of the cabin for now and it’s now in a place where it could be deployed easily.

I tried to mount a padeye on the boom to extend the lazy jacks, but the padeye I had did not match the holes I had tapped previously.

Next work day (maybe the earlier part of the day on 8/9 or 8/11) I’ll choose from the following projects:

– Install a padeye to extend the lazy jacks to a 3-branch system

– Attach a bail to the mast and a bracket on the boom for a vang

– Investigate converting the outhaul (main boom) from rope/wire to all rope, and add a block to route the line to the bottom edge of the boom, to allow:

– Install a 4′ section of T-track for reefing blocks

– Loosen stern pulpit, caulk underneath, then:

– Install dorades on after deck

– Install handrails on the coach roof

– Change the engine oil and the fuel and oil filters